True Brew Ingredient Kits

Well hopped smooth & full bodied, full flavored American Ale. Kit contains Muntons malts and Ale yeast, Cascade hops. Suitable for any level of brewing skill, makes a great first homebrew kit.

A true Bavarian delight! Cloudy with classic Banana and clove phenols wrapped up with crisp Wheat flavors. Serve in a tall glass with a slice of Orange. Commercial Examples: Hacker Pschorr Franziskaner 4) Bottling The best bottles for homebrew are dark brown longnecks. They can’t be screw-tops. ‘Grolsch’ type bottles are excellent as long as the gaskets are checked for cracks and replaced if necessary. Use a bottle brush on any bottles with accumulated sediment, then sanitize all bottles, carefully following the directions for whichever sanitizer you pick. Rinse as necessary. Clean and sanitize your bottling bucket with spigot attached, filler, all hosing, bottle caps, and any other equipment to be used. In a small saucepan, heat 1 cup water and the priming sugar. Mix until dissolved and bring to boil, then remove from heat. Place the full fermenter on a counter with the bottling bucket on the floor or a chair at a lower level. If you choose, take a hydrometer reading for final gravity now. Fill the siphon with water, and place the rigid end with the racking tip midway between top and bottom of the beer. Lower the flexible end and beer should begin to flow. When beer begins flowing into the bottling bucket, gently pour the warm sugar mixture from the saucepan into the bottling bucket. Movement of the beer into the bucket should mix the sugar thoroughly. Stop the siphon before it begins picking up sediment from the bottom of the fermenter. Raise the bottling bucket to chair or counter level. Remove the rigid racking cane with tip from the flexible tubing and replace with the bottle filler. Attach the other end of the flexible tubing to the spigot of the bottling bucket. Place the filler in one bottle after another. Each bottle should fill when the filler tip is touching the bottom, and stop when the filler is removed. Lift the filler just as beer reaches the top of each bottle. Removal of the filler tube will then leave sufficient air space. Cap bottles, and rinse off outside as necessary. Clean all equipment prior to storage. Place beer in a cool, dark area for a week to condition. It can then be moved to a refrigerator for further aging, or left in the same cool dark area. Aging should continue for another 3 weeks. You’ve now made beer the TRUE BREW way. Enjoy! True Brew tm Beer Ingredient Kit All ingredients necessary for a full 5-gallon (2-case) batch Whiteley Series Hefeweizen Thanks for purchasing a True Brewtm ingredient kit. We warrant that the contents of this kit are fresh, and the highest quality ingredients available. Brew Stats: Beginning Gravity: 1.045 – 1.049 Final Gravity: 1.008 – 1.012 Hop Bittering Units: 5 Step-by-Step Instructions: 1) Preparation: Gather all materials together, and prepare for brewing. This kit should contain: Unhopped Wheat Malt Extract – 2 cans Liberty Hop Pellets – 2 oz Fermentis WB-06 Hefeweizen Yeast - 1 pack Priming Sugar – 5 oz Bottle Caps Other Equipment you’ll need: Brewpot: a large (6+ quarts) stainless or un-chipped ceramic pot Fermenter with lid Airlock Hydrometer Thermometer Siphon Set Bottling Bucket or other Secondary Container Bottle Filler Bottle Brush Equipment Cleanser Saucepan Strainer Long Handled Plastic or Stainless Spoon Bottle Capper 50 12-Ounce Beer Bottles (non-screw-top long necks) Cleanliness is essential to the brewing process, and must be a routine part of your technique. Thoroughly wash all equipment and utensils to be used with a solution of B-Brite, C-Brite or other Cleanser. If necessary, finish with a rinse of cool water. 2) Brewing: Remove the label from the can of malt extract, wash the can, and place it in a pot of hot water to soften the syrup. Place about 1½ gallons water in the brewpot, and bring to a boil. Turn heat off. While stirring the water with a long-handled spoon, slowly pour one can of the malt extract into the pot. Continue stirring while adding 1 oz of the Liberty hops. Stir until materials dissolve, then return to heat and bring to a boil. Note: When it first boils, the mixture will foam. Reduce heat, or remove from burner and foam will subside. Turn heat back on, and repeat process until foaming stops, then boil for 30 minutes. Remove brewpot from heat. Add the second can of malt extract and the second ounce of Liberty hops, while stirring. Once the materials have dissolved, return brewpot to heat, bring mixture to boil and continue boiling for 15 minutes. Place 2.5 gallons of cold water in your fermenting vessel, and slowly pour the hot mixture into the vessel. Fill with additional cold water up to 5 gallons. 3) Fermentation: Allow mixture to cool if necessary, until under 90 deg F. If you wish to take a hydrometer reading for starting gravity, do so now. Gravity ranges for this kit are listed on the front of these instructions. Sprinkle the yeast over the mixture, wait 10 minutes and stir gently with 1 or 2 spoon strokes. Taking the airlock in one hand, and the lid of the fermenter in the other, gently twist the airlock tip into the hole of the lid. Place the lid on the fermenter, and push down hard until the lid is tight. Finally, fill the airlock half full of water and cap. Over the next 24 hours fermentation should begin, and you’ll see bubbling through the airlock. Fermentation should continue for 48-72 hours, and then cease as settling begins. Allow the beer to settle for 3-4 days after fermentation ceases (no more bubbles in the airlock). Generally, you’ll be ready to bottle a week after beginning fermentation. 4) Bottling The best bottles for homebrew are dark brown longnecks. They can’t be screw-tops. ‘Grolsch’ type bottles are excellent as long as the gaskets are checked for cracks and replaced if necessary. Use a bottle brush on any bottles with accumulated sediment, then sanitize all bottles, carefully following the directions for whichever sanitizer you pick. Rinse as necessary. Clean and sanitize your bottling bucket with spigot attached, filler, all hosing, bottle caps, and any other equipment to be used. In a small saucepan, heat 1 cup water and the priming sugar. Mix until dissolved and bring to boil, then remove from heat. Place the full fermenter on a counter with the bottling bucket on the floor or a chair at a lower level. If you choose, take a hydrometer reading for final gravity now. Fill the siphon with water, and place the rigid end with the racking tip midway between top and bottom of the beer. Lower the flexible end and beer should begin to flow. When beer begins flowing into the bottling bucket, gently pour the warm sugar mixture from the saucepan into the bottling bucket. Movement of the beer into the bucket should mix the sugar thoroughly. Stop the siphon before it begins picking up sediment from the bottom of the fermenter. Raise the bottling bucket to chair or counter level. Remove the rigid racking cane with tip from the flexible tubing and replace with the bottle filler. Attach the other end of the flexible tubing to the spigot of the bottling bucket. Place the filler in one bottle after another. Each bottle should fill when the filler tip is touching the bottom, and stop when the filler is removed. Lift the filler just as beer reaches the top of each bottle. Removal of the filler tube will then leave sufficient air space. Cap bottles, and rinse off outside as necessary. Clean all equipment prior to storage. Place beer in a cool, dark area for a week to condition. It can then be moved to a refrigerator for further aging, or left in the same cool dark area. Aging should continue for another 3 weeks. You’ve now made beer the TRUE BREW way. Enjoy!

light in body dark in color smooth and full of flavor. A German brew that surprises the palate with a clean flavor and luscious Chocolate undertones. Commercial Examples: Sam Adams Einbecker True Brew tm Beer Ingredient Kit All ingredients necessary for a full 5-gallon (2-case) batch Whiteley Series Black Lager Thanks for purchasing a True Brewtm ingredient kit. We warrant that the contents of this kit are fresh, and the highest quality ingredients available. Brew Stats: Beginning Gravity: 1.050 – 1.054 Final Gravity: 1.011 – 1.015 Hop Bittering Units: 7 Step-by-Step Instructions: 1) Preparation: Gather all materials together, and prepare for brewing. This kit should contain: Unhopped Extra Light Malt Extract – 1 can Extra Light Dried Malt Extract – 1 lb Light Dried Malt Extract – 1 lb Weyermann Carafa Special Type II – 1 lb Grain Steeping Bag Northern Brewer Hop Pellets – 1 oz Liberty Hop Pellets – 1 oz Fermentis S-23 Lager Yeast - 1 pack Priming Sugar – 5 oz Bottle Caps Other Equipment you’ll need: Brewpot: a large (6+ quarts) stainless or un-chipped ceramic pot Fermenter with lid Airlock Hydrometer Thermometer Siphon Set Bottling Bucket or other Secondary Container Bottle Filler Bottle Brush Equipment Cleanser Saucepan Strainer Long Handled Plastic or Stainless Spoon Bottle Capper 50 12-Ounce Beer Bottles (non-screw-top long necks) Cleanliness is essential to the brewing process, and must be a routine part of your technique. Thoroughly wash all equipment and utensils to be used with a solution of B-Brite, C-Brite or other Cleanser. If necessary, finish with a rinse of cool water. 2) Brewing: Remove the label from the can of malt extract, wash the can, and place it in a pot of hot water to soften the syrup. Place about 1 ½ gallons water in the brewpot, and bring to a boil. Turn the heat off. Place all grains in the steeping bag, and steep in the hot water for 20-30 minutes. Then remove and discard the spent grains, and heat the water again to near boiling. Turn heat off. While stirring the water with a long-handled spoon, slowly pour the malt extract into the pot. Continue stirring while adding both the dried malt extracts plus the Northern Brewer hops. Stir until materials dissolve, then return to heat and bring to a boil. Note: When it first boils, the mixture will foam. Reduce heat, or remove from burner and foam will subside. Turn heat back on, and repeat process until foaming stops. Boil for 35 minutes, add the Liberty hops and continue boiling for 10 minutes. Place 2.5 gallons of cold water in your fermenting vessel, and slowly pour the hot mixture into the vessel. Fill with additional cold water up to 5 gallons. 3) Fermentation: Allow mixture to cool if necessary, until under 90 deg F. If you wish to take a hydrometer reading for starting gravity, do so now. Gravity ranges for this kit are listed on the front of these instructions. Sprinkle the yeast over the mixture, wait 10 minutes and stir gently with 1 or 2 spoon strokes. Taking the airlock in one hand, and the lid of the fermenter in the other, gently twist the airlock tip into the hole of the lid. Place the lid on the fermenter, and push down hard until the lid is tight. Finally, fill the airlock half full of water and cap. Allow beer to ferment in a cool place (optimum 46-53 deg F) Over the next 24 hours fermentation should begin, and you’ll see bubbling through the airlock. Fermentation should continue for 48-72 hours, and then cease as settling begins. Allow the beer to settle for 3-4 days after fermentation ceases (no more bubbles in the airlock). Generally, you’ll be ready to bottle a week after beginning fermentation. 4) Bottling The best bottles for homebrew are dark brown longnecks. They can’t be screw-tops. ‘Grolsch’ type bottles are excellent as long as the gaskets are checked for cracks and replaced if necessary. Use a bottle brush on any bottles with accumulated sediment, then sanitize all bottles, carefully following the directions for whichever sanitizer you pick. Rinse as necessary. Clean and sanitize your bottling bucket with spigot attached, filler, all hosing, bottle caps, and any other equipment to be used. In a small saucepan, heat 1 cup water and the priming sugar. Mix until dissolved and bring to boil, then remove from heat. Place the full fermenter on a counter with the bottling bucket on the floor or a chair at a lower level. If you choose, take a hydrometer reading for final gravity now. Fill the siphon with water, and place the rigid end with the racking tip midway between top and bottom of the beer. Lower the flexible end and beer should begin to flow. When beer begins flowing into the bottling bucket, gently pour the warm sugar mixture from the saucepan into the bottling bucket. Movement of the beer into the bucket should mix the sugar thoroughly. Stop the siphon before it begins picking up sediment from the bottom of the fermenter. Raise the bottling bucket to chair or counter level. Remove the rigid racking cane with tip from the flexible tubing and replace with the bottle filler. Attach the other end of the flexible tubing to the spigot of the bottling bucket. Place the filler in one bottle after another. Each bottle should fill when the filler tip is touching the bottom, and stop when the filler is removed. Lift the filler just as beer reaches the top of each bottle. Removal of the filler tube will then leave sufficient air space. Cap bottles, and rinse off outside as necessary. Clean all equipment prior to storage. Place beer in a cool, dark area for a week to condition. It can then be moved to a refrigerator for further aging, or left in the same cool dark area. Aging should continue for another 3 weeks. You’ve now made beer the TRUE BREW way. Enjoy!

Dark brown with creamy well balanced flavor True Brew tm Beer Ingredient Kit All ingredients necessary for a full 5-gallon (2-case) batch All Malt Brown Ale Thanks for purchasing a True Brewtm ingredient kit. We warrant that the contents of this kit are fresh, and the highest quality ingredients available. Brew Stats: Beginning Gravity: 1.043 - 1.045 Final Gravity: 1.010 - 1.012 Hop Bittering Units: 5.5 Step-by-Step Instructions: 1) Preparation: Gather all materials together, and prepare for brewing. This kit should contain: Unhopped Dark Malt Extract – 1 can Dark Dried Malt Extract – 2 lbs Malto-Dextrin – 8 oz Hop Pellets – 1 oz Ale Yeast – 1 pack Priming Sugar – 5 oz Bottle Caps Other Equipment you’ll need: Brewpot: a large (6+ quarts) stainless or un-chipped ceramic pot Fermenter with lid Airlock Hydrometer Thermometer Siphon Set Bottling Bucket or other Secondary Container Bottle Filler Bottle Brush Equipment Cleanser Saucepan Long Handled Plastic or Stainless Spoon Bottle Capper 50 12-Ounce Beer Bottles (non-screw-top long necks) Cleanliness is essential to the brewing process, and must be a routine part of your technique. Thoroughly wash all equipment and utensils to be used with a solution of B-Brite, C-Brite or other Cleanser. If necessary, finish with a rinse of cool water. 2) Brewing: Remove the label from the can of malt extract, wash the can, and place it in a pot of hot water to soften the syrup and make it easier to pour. Place 1-1 ½ gallons water in the brewpot, and bring to a boil. Turn the heat off (on an electric stove, temporarily remove from burner). While stirring the water with a long-handled spoon, slowly pour the extract into the pot. Continue stirring while adding the dried malt extract, malto-dextrin and hops. Stir until materials dissolve, then return to heat and bring to a boil. Note: When it first boils, the mixture will foam. Reduce heat, or remove from burner and foam will subside. Turn heat back on, and repeat process until foaming stops. Then boil for 20 minutes to ½ hour. Place 3 gallons of cold water in your fermenting vessel, and slowly pour the hot mixture into the vessel. Fill with additional cold water up to 5 gallons. 3) Fermentation: Allow the warm mixture (it’s now unfermented beer, called wort) to cool if necessary, until it’s under 90 degrees F. If you wish to take a hydrometer reading for beginning specific gravity, do so now before introducing yeast. Gravity ranges for this kit are listed on the front of these instructions. Sprinkle the yeast over the top of the mixture. Wait 10 minutes and stir the yeast gently into the wort with 1 or 2 strokes of the spoon. Taking the airlock in one hand, and the lid of the fermenter in the other, gently twist the airlock tip into the hole of the lid. Place the lid on the fermenter, and push down hard until the lid is tight. Finally, fill the airlock half full of water and place its cap on top. Now the yeast does the real work! Over the next 24 hours fermentation should begin, and you’ll see bubbling through the airlock. Fermentation should continue for 48-72 hours, and then cease as settling begins. Allow the beer to settle for 3-4 days after fermentation ceases (no more bubbles in the airlock). Generally, you’ll be ready to bottle a week after beginning fermentation. 4) Bottling The best bottles for homebrew are dark brown longnecks. They can’t be screw-tops. ‘Grolsch’ type bottles are excellent as long as the gaskets are checked for cracks and replaced if necessary. Use a bottle brush on any bottles with accumulated sediment, then sanitize all bottles, carefully following the directions for whichever sanitizer you pick. Rinse as necessary. Clean and sanitize your bottling bucket with spigot attached, filler, all hosing, bottle caps, and any other equipment to be used. In a small saucepan, heat 1 cup water and the priming sugar. Mix until dissolved and bring to boil, then remove from heat. Place the full fermenter on a counter with the bottling bucket on the floor or a chair at a lower level. If you choose, take a hydrometer reading for final gravity now. Fill the siphon with water, and place the rigid end with the racking tip midway between top and bottom of the beer. Lower the flexible end and beer should begin to flow. When beer begins flowing into the bottling bucket, gently pour the warm sugar mixture from the saucepan into the bottling bucket. Movement of the beer into the bucket should mix the sugar thoroughly. Stop the siphon before it begins picking up sediment from the bottom of the fermenter. Raise the bottling bucket to chair or counter level. Remove the rigid racking cane with tip from the flexible tubing, and replace with the bottle filler. Attach the other end of the flexible tubing to the spigot of the bottling bucket. Place the filler in one bottle after another. Each bottle should fill when the filler tip is touching the bottom, and stop when the filler is removed. Lift the filler just as beer reaches the top of each bottle. Removal of the filler tube will then leave sufficient air space. Cap bottles, and rinse off outside as necessary. Clean all equipment prior to storage. Place beer in a cool, dark area for a week to condition. It can then be moved to a refrigerator for further aging, or left in the same cool dark area. Aging should continue for another 3 weeks. You’ve now made beer the TRUE BREW way. Enjoy!

Cool clean taste w a delicate hop nose True Brew tm Beer Ingredient Kit All ingredients necessary for a full 5-gallon (2-case) batch All Malt Canadian Ale Thanks for purchasing a True Brewtm ingredient kit. We warrant that the contents of this kit are fresh, and the highest quality ingredients available. Brew Stats: Beginning Gravity: 1.042 - 1.044 Final Gravity: 1.010 - 1.012 Hop Bittering Units: 8.6 Step-by-Step Instructions: 1) Preparation: Gather all materials together, and prepare for brewing. This kit should contain: Unhopped Light Malt Extract – 1 can Light Dried Malt Extract – 2 lbs Hop Pellets – 2 oz Ale Yeast – 1 pack Priming Sugar – 5 oz Bottle Caps Other Equipment you’ll need: Brewpot: a large (6+ quarts) stainless or un-chipped ceramic pot Fermenter with lid Airlock Hydrometer Thermometer Siphon Set Bottling Bucket or other Secondary Container Bottle Filler Bottle Brush Equipment Cleanser Saucepan Long Handled Plastic or Stainless Spoon Bottle Capper 50 12-Ounce Beer Bottles (non-screw-top long necks) Cleanliness is essential to the brewing process, and must be a routine part of your technique. Thoroughly wash all equipment and utensils to be used with a solution of B-Brite, C-Brite or other Cleanser. If necessary, finish with a rinse of cool water. 2) Brewing: Remove the label from the can of malt extract, wash the can, and place it in a pot of hot water to soften the syrup and make it easier to pour. Place 1-1 ½ gallons water in the brewpot, and bring to a boil. Turn the heat off (on an electric stove, temporarily remove from burner). While stirring the water with a long-handled spoon, slowly pour the extract into the pot. Continue stirring while adding the dried malt extract and hops. Stir until materials dissolve, then return to heat and bring to a boil. Note: When it first boils, the mixture will foam. Reduce heat, or remove from burner and foam will subside. Turn heat back on, and repeat process until foaming stops. Then boil for 20 minutes to ½ hour. Place 3 gallons of cold water in your fermenting vessel, and slowly pour the hot mixture into the vessel. Fill with additional cold water up to 5 gallons. 3) Fermentation: Allow the warm mixture (it’s now unfermented beer, called wort) to cool if necessary, until it’s under 90 degrees F. If you wish to take a hydrometer reading for beginning specific gravity, do so now before introducing yeast. Gravity ranges for this kit are listed on the front of these instructions. Sprinkle the yeast over the top of the mixture. Wait 10 minutes and stir the yeast gently into the wort with 1 or 2 strokes of the spoon. Taking the airlock in one hand, and the lid of the fermenter in the other, gently twist the airlock tip into the hole of the lid. Place the lid on the fermenter, and push down hard until the lid is tight. Finally, fill the airlock half full of water and place its cap on top. Now the yeast does the real work! Over the next 24 hours fermentation should begin, and you’ll see bubbling through the airlock. Fermentation should continue for 48-72 hours, and then cease as settling begins. Allow the beer to settle for 3-4 days after fermentation ceases (no more bubbles in the airlock). Generally, you’ll be ready to bottle a week after beginning fermentation. 4) Bottling The best bottles for homebrew are dark brown longnecks. They can’t be screw-tops. ‘Grolsch’ type bottles are excellent as long as the gaskets are checked for cracks and replaced if necessary. Use a bottle brush on any bottles with accumulated sediment, then sanitize all bottles, carefully following the directions for whichever sanitizer you pick. Rinse as necessary. Clean and sanitize your bottling bucket with spigot attached, filler, all hosing, bottle caps, and any other equipment to be used. In a small saucepan, heat 1 cup water and the priming sugar. Mix until dissolved and bring to boil, then remove from heat. Place the full fermenter on a counter with the bottling bucket on the floor or a chair at a lower level. If you choose, take a hydrometer reading for final gravity now. Fill the siphon with water, and place the rigid end with the racking tip midway between top and bottom of the beer. Lower the flexible end and beer should begin to flow. When beer begins flowing into the bottling bucket, gently pour the warm sugar mixture from the saucepan into the bottling bucket. Movement of the beer into the bucket should mix the sugar thoroughly. Stop the siphon before it begins picking up sediment from the bottom of the fermenter. Raise the bottling bucket to chair or counter level. Remove the rigid racking cane with tip from the flexible tubing, and replace with the bottle filler. Attach the other end of the flexible tubing to the spigot of the bottling bucket. Place the filler in one bottle after another. Each bottle should fill when the filler tip is touching the bottom, and stop when the filler is removed. Lift the filler just as beer reaches the top of each bottle. Removal of the filler tube will then leave sufficient air space. Cap bottles, and rinse off outside as necessary. Clean all equipment prior to storage. Place beer in a cool, dark area for a week to condition. It can then be moved to a refrigerator for further aging, or left in the same cool dark area. Aging should continue for another 3 weeks. You’ve now made beer the TRUE BREW way. Enjoy!